One of my favorites places in Rome is the church of San Luigi dei Francesi (St. Louis of the French), which is situated near Piazza Navona, Piazza Sant'Eustachio, and the Pantheon. A coffee lover's note, Cafe Sant'Eustachio has been serving the best coffee, espresso, cappuccino in Rome for over 60 years; this cafe is not to be missed!!!!

One of the reasons this small church is a favorite pilgrimage spot amongst art lovers, is that the Cerasi Chapel is adorned with three stunningly dramatic works by Caravaggio (1571-1610), who was the Baroque master of the heightened approach to light and dark. For Caravaggio one could only experience light through darkness, and life through death.

At the time, Caravaggio's painting were controversial because the clergy felt that the artist's dramatically realistic approach was scandalously disrespectful. Yet, Caravaggio painted what he knew best, life on the streets and often used prostitute's as models and painted scenes of Jesus surrounded with peasants rather than celestial angels and royal subjects.

This is a tiny and quiet, yet beautiful church. In the early morning as light streams through the stained glass, you will experience the beauty of Caravaggio's magnificent brush.

Begun in 1518 for the future Clement VII, the church was completed at the end of the same century by Domenico Fontana on the design by Giacomo Della Porta. The building, national church of the French, rises at the back of Piazza Navona, next to the Senate House.

The ample facade in travertine stone is decorated with figures of French Saints and of Charlemagne. The interior with three naves was arranged during the course of the 18th century. Besides the famous St. Matthew's chapel, the church houses Domenichino's masterpiece; the fresco of St. Cecilia in the second chapel ontheright (1616-17).

In the Contarelli chapel, there are the Stories of St. Matthew. From 1565, the chapel belonged to the French ecclesiastic, Mathieu Cointrel, who dedicated it to his patron saint with the intention of starting the decorations; the work, however, began only after his death, on the commission of the executor of his will, Virgilio Crescenzi. In 1591, Cavalier d'Arpino was given the commission of frescoing the chapel, but eight years later still lacked the two side paintings which were entrusted to Caravaggio. The painter completed them between July 1599 and July 1600. On the left is the Vocation of St. Matthew and on the right is the Martyrdom of St. Matthew.

The realism of the portrayal emphasises the harshness of the killing of the saint. The artist interprets with originality, the trend of the style of the Counter-reform, which insisted on the celebration of martyred saints. After having renounced the Sculptors' group of Jacob Cobaert {in the church of theTrinita dei PellegriniL the clergyman of San Luigi entrusted Caravaggio with the first version of the altar-piece with St. Matthew and the Angel, of doubtful date, wavering between 1593 and 1602. The work, quickly rejected because of the reduced size and for reasons of decorum, was acquired by the Marquis, Vincenzo Giustiniani (destroyed in Berlin during the last conflict) and substituted by the one which can now be seen on the altar, with the saint turned towards the angel and leaning with his legs on the stool precariously balanced on the steps.

You will not regret stopping in at this beautiful church, the quiet and solitude will offer respite from the crowds of Rome and you will be enthralled with the mastery of Caravaggio also known as Michaelanglo Merisi (September 29, 1571 - 18 July 1610).

Famous and extremely influential while he lived, Caravaggio was almost entirely forgotten in the centuries after his death, and it was only in the 20th century that his importance to the development of Western art was rediscovered. Yet despite this his influence on the new Baroque style which eventually emerged from the ruins of Mannerism, was profound. Andre Berne-Joffroy, Paul Valéry’s secretary, said of him: "What begins in the work of Caravaggio is, quite simply, modern painting."

Visiting hours and location Address: Piazza San Luigi dei Francesi, Rome
Open: Fri.-Wed. 7-12:30 and 3:30-7

The Calling of St. Matthew (1599-1600)

The Martyrdom of St. Matthew (1599-1600)

St. Matthew and the Angel (1603)

Interior of San Luigi dei Francesi, Rome, Italy
The artist, Caravaggio